/ Fashion

Tactility speaks at London Fashion Week A/W 2018

Last week in London we were witnesses to a fashion take over of the city. Numerous journalists, photographers, bloggers and creatives flooded the streets seeking all the wonders London Fashion Week had to offer. And the schedule was packed (!) with industry defining shows as Christopher Bailey's last Burberry showcase, insightful talks, The Sustainable Angle space as well as it was accompanied by the most unexpected appearance of Her Majesty the Queen to the Richard Quinn's show.

Furthermore, LFW, alongside NYFW, saw an outburst of youthful talent aiming to redefine and push the traditional look and feel of catwalk show. Immersing ourselves in the featured events, we also observed designers becoming ever more playful with autumn and winter tactilities of fabrics and finishes. As Anna Wintour concludes "(...) lack of exploration may result in the perception of repetitiveness, which neither of the young designers wishes to do." This exciting creative attitude painted remarkable material trends for the AW18' season ahead.

Below, we identify five CMF tactilities that will mark their presence in the AW18’ season:

CMF Trend #1 - Lace

Being perceived as surface of prestige, heritage and glamour, lace gracefully dominated AW18' catwalks. We spotted a range of different threads being used that included natural (e.g. cotton) and synthetic fibers (e.g. nylon, polyester). Their open and weblike patterns, in which the texture of the skin intertwines with graphical motif of the fabric, evoked emotions of intimacy, discretion, trust and sensuality of human body. Popularisation of this highly valued material, illustrates the general need for human affection and tenderness in the chaos of socio-political scene.

Above: Christopher Kane Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 11

Above: Jiri Kalfar Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 1

Above: Jiri Kalfar Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 19

Above: Jens Laugesen Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 17

CMF Trend #2 - Fur, Feathers & Leathers

Whether using real or faux furs, feathers and leathers, designers mindfully apply these surfaces to equip clothing with honest haptic experiences. Faux fur shapes jackets and coats to offer a sense of cocooning and, in some instances, also replaces lining to create a cushioning effect. Feathers act as a defining detail and an outline of the form that adorns the garments with the sense of movement. This all, is further amplified by a choice of semi-aniline leather finishes that capture tactile qualities of leather’s natural coarseness. Its characteristic smooth texture accompanied by spontaneous patterns showcases the markets need for authentic-feel surfaces.

Above: Chalayan Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection

Above: David Koma Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 1

Above: Erdem Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 34

Above: Jens Laugesen Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 15

Above: Leonie Mergen Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 1

Above: Markus Lupfer Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection

Above: Natasha Zinko Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 27

Above: Preen By Thornton Bregazzi Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 38

Above: Rocky Star Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 30

Above: Shrimps Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 6

CMF Trend #3 - Embellishments & Metallics

Embellishments & Metallics prove that a little sparkle never hurt anybody. This trend portrays a visionary moment of glitzy escapism that aims to lift up the spirit and raise confidence in the uncertain and ever more divided socio-political scene. This trend was evident in tactile surfaces that included Michael Halpern's unashamed sequin glamour, David Koma's fringe details, Mary Katrantzou's boho style ornamentations or Erdem's flocked embellishments on lace.

Above: Ashish Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 10

Above: AV Robertson Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 9

Above: Chalayan Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection

Above: Christopher Kane Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 14

Above: David Koma Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 14

Above: Huishan Zhang Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection

Above: Mary Katrantzou Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 17

Above: Mimi Tran Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 8

Above: MM6 Maison Margiela Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 25

Above: Natasha Zinko Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 19

Above: Ports 1961 Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection

Above: Richard Quinn Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 19

Above: Temperley Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 7

CMF Trend #4 - Frill, flounce, ruffle, furbelow

Experimentation with frills, flounces, ruffles and furbelows alongside sleeves, skirts and entire dresses was spotted in numerous collections that included Marques Almeida, Christopher Kane and Roksanda. Even though designers made a different choice of fabric, we witnessed their garments peacefully gliding on air, which defined memorable impression of suspended yet really dynamic material moments. Furthermore, these fluid and wave-like shapes added additional dimension to the surface tactility of presented garments.

Above: Roksanda Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 11

Above: Simone Rocha Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 5

Above: JW Anderson Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 30

Above: Jens Laugesen Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 7

Above: Isa Arfen Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 2

Above: Huishan Zhang Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection

Above: Emilio De La Morena Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 15

Above: Burberry Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 5

CMF Trend #5 - Colours

Colours for the AW18' season will embrace individuality, spark fantasy and annotate sensual and natural heritage. We will see an outburst of playfully rebellious colours, graphics and patterns. Clashes and skilful layering will define compilations of these. Some of the most notable shades included: purple, beige, black, deep reds, maroon, baby blue complemented with hues of turquoise, mocha and mellow yellow.

Above: Chalayan Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection

Above: Victoria, Victoria Beckham Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 2

Above: Victoria, Victoria Beckham Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 21

Above: Chalayan Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection

Above: Roksanda Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 25

Above: Emilia Wickstead Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 15

Above: Christopher Kane Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 47

Above: Chalayan Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection

Above: Roksanda Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 15

Above: Shrimps Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 1

Above: Christopher Kane Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 11

Above: Eudon Choi Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 29

Above: Markus Lupfer Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection

Above: Emilia Wickstead Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 13

Above: MM6 Maison Margiela Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 1

Above: Temperley Autumn/Winter 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection - Look 2

If you are interested to find out more about some of the other CMF trends we are closely monitoring for 2018, please feel free to get in touch and explore our material library for seasonal/project inspiration!